REGENERATIVE CREAMS, MASKS AND TREATMENTS
WHAT'S IN A NAME?
COSME-CEUTICS OR MEDICAL COSMETICS
 The difference between these products and the more general cosmetics, is that they contain sustances that fundamentally change the skin's metabolisme. Active substances that stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis and modifie the activity of the cells of the skin are manyfold, but can be lumped together under three different chemical categories: 1. weak acids 2. vitamins and other antioxidants 3. peptides They can be very benefical in the war against aging, but are liable to complicated reactions, possibly requiring medical attention and correction. The manufacturing, preserving and application of these substances to the skin in need has become very professional indeed. |
THE SKIN IN NEED
BIOLOGICAL REVERSAL OF AGING
 It is the combination of genetics and sun, smoke and central heating that determines the speed with which the skin looses its youthful radiance by dehydration and atrophy. The skin cell has a cycle of regeneration of 28 days. Dead skin cells remain for 12 days on the upper skin, creating the top layer or stratum corneum. Clogged pores and blackheads result from the mixing with the secretions of sweat and sebaceous glands with the dust and grime particles found on the skin. Therefore, the first and most import aspect to rejuvenate and improve the skin is to clean it. This is often forgotten. Only when scleaned properly, the active substances from the cosmeceutic suspensions can penetrate the skin. Thus, before applying anything at all, remove the slurry of sweat and sebaceous secretions that are mixed in with dirt and dead skin. |
SKIN CLEANSING
HOW TO REACH THE DEEPER LAYERS
 In order to make the skin optimally receptive for treating agents, the dead layer and dirt and grime need to be adequately removed. Numerous “cleansing products” such as milky products or containing minerals, oils or waxes (lanoline, paraffin, liquidium, iso-paraffin, glycerin etc.) will never clean optimally. These are hydrophobic (water rejecting), and will deposit a layer of fat/oil on the skin. In fact, they will increase the thickness of the epidermis. More importantly, the oily layer on top of the skin will form a certain barrier through which medically active substances can not pass. Light acid as a comeceutic daily peeling agent: Once the skin is properly cleansed, the use of a properly balanced acid solution will remover the dead layers optimally, without damaging the skin or causing allergies, spots, and couperose (rosacea).This will split the keratinocytes without the skin being peeled or getting thinner. By using the balanced (fruit) acid mixtures, the regeneration of cells is being stimulated towards skin rejuvenation, and the damaging free radicals mopped up. The result of tius type of cleansing-acid peeling already is a softer skin with better structure and blood flow and a vital appearance. Small lines and wrinkles may soften or even disappear. The requirements of the skin are individually determined by variables such as age, its condition, environmental factors including the food we eat. However the common truth is that only after the skin has been adequately cleaned and pre-treated the shortages deep inside can be replenished by more advanced substances. |
REPLENISHING
COMPLEX MOLECULES
 Collagen is one of the most important proteins in the human body. It consists of a triple helix of millions of amino acids. About 70% of the dry fat free dermis is collagen, 6% of our total dry bodyweight. Collagen is responsible for 60% of all fluid captation in the skin, hence very important for a young, fresh and smooth skin. As the skin looses collagen by aging, time, illness, stress and the radicals from exhaust fumes of cars and factories, the sun, smog and the smoking of cigarettes, it looses moisture, smoothness and elasticity. The most important fluid-retaining layer of the epidermis is the "stratum basale" with the germinal cell layer. It contains 7O% of water in the skin. Any dehydration in that layer not only shows through immediately as fine lines and lacklustre, but also affects the normal cell regeneration. THE IMPORTANCE OF PEPTIDE CHEMISTRY: The collagen molecule is too large to penetrate into the stratum basale. Only dis-assembled parts of it can penetrate as single helix structures, that re-assemble into collagen once in place. |
